Africa! An Email Journey Through Paradise, January 2003

A voyage of self-discovery and to raise funds for AIDS relief in Uganda, Rwanda and South Africa, and to save the endangered mountain gorilla population. Oh yeah, climbed Kilimanjaro for Mom, too.

Saturday, March 26, 2005

1/27 Red Chilli’s 5:40PM.

Have had two very nice days in Kampala. On Sunday, I got myself down to Entebbe-- a very green and pretty little town, made world famous by a spectacular Israeli hijacking rescue that really pissed of fun, insane dictator Idi Amin. I arrived at the Uganda Wildlife Education Center to begin my chimp/Ngamba trip. Ngamba is 28K off Entebbe in Lake Victoria, the second largest freshwater lake in the world. There were maybe 20 of us waiting who were greeted by a rep from G&C Tours.

As we were walking down to the pier, the G&C guy explained that we would be crossing the equator, and on the return, we could hop of the boat and go swimming if we wanted to.

Might sound inviting, but this was after we’d been talking about bilharzia, a disease caused by a snail parasite that drills in through your skin and swims up stream to set up castles in your liver. Sort of like your own internal sea monkey family. Fun!

So, did I want to jump in for a swim? Well, I would have, but I’d just finished eating my tapeworm sandwich. 30-minute rule and all…

We arrived at this beautiful little rainforest island, were given a thorough history and briefing, then an hour or so to relax before the 2:30PM feeding. They even had kayaks for use if you wanted to paddle out to meet the snails on their turf.

Ngamba is an amazing place- not exploitative, and there are about 40 chimps there.

All of the chimps were confiscated from illegal trade—a couple were even repatriated from an Eastern European circus where they used to have to rollerskate and smoke cigarettes.

It was shocking to learn that in Cameroon, 3,000 chimps a year are eaten. Chimp meat, or “sweet meat” is highly prized, and even is eaten in London & Brussels. I find that astounding, a little too much like cannibalism. Would you like Mexican or French tonight?

At 4PM, we boarded the speed canoe back to Entebbe. A beautiful late afternoon sun warmed as I wondered if snails were burrowing into my lips—lake spray and all.

Arrived back at Red Chilli around 7:30PM. A great day with the great apes.

Today, I met Greyson, and we went around Kampala. He wanted to show me where he lived, “It is a slum, I think!” Off we went on boda bodas (mototaxis) through a very poor neighborhood known as Banda.

I was great entertainment--like having Mars come a-calling. Greyson said they probably hadn’t seen a European (honkie) before.

The kids were so cute--one approached me—all wide eyes, curiosity and a quick touch, before running back to her friends.

Greyson was saying that we in the west have weak immune systems-- which I think is true. The number of viruses, bacteria, parasites that they deal with on a daily basis--perhaps this is why people with HIV succumb so quickly in Africa. That and lack of meds.

One thing that broke my heart was seeing a little girl of maybe four, in her pretty Sunday dress. She must have had hydrocephalus, as her head must have been 30” around. She did look very serene and happy, though.

Later, we visited Kasubi tombs, burial site of the Bugandan kings. Also saw the first two chairs in Uganda- from pretty pretty Queen Victoria. I NEVER thought I’d see those chairs!

One thing which I really like was that our guide told us that in Lugandan, the word for die doesn’t mean death—it means to change. Very strong belief in the afterlife.

After the tombs, I headed to Volcanoes Safaris to check on my gorilla trek status.

I walked past embassies, parks. Funny, the Maribou storks I found so funny in the Serengeti, well, in a major city, they look like minions from Hell, all red scrotum heads and mangy necks, with their weird butler outfits.

A nice Oz couple were saying they were kind of creeped out by them too, especially since they saw them picking at the dead flamingos in Kenya.

Kampala has a very cosmopolitan feel, like an African Paris, with red clay dust, and the Maribou on the bird, not the sweater. Uganda seems to be one of the more Off the Beaten Track places I’ve been—not many tourists.

At Volcanoes, I was warmly greeted by Francis, the gentleman with whom I’d been corresponding about their supporting my gorilla trek.

“You must be Mr. Craig! Welcome!”

Volcanoes is an extremely upscale tour operator—they arrange travel for the Gorilla Fund when they visit.

Volcanoes is going to pay for my trek in Rwanda, the government of Rwanda is giving me a gratis permit, and they are giving me a hefty discount on a second day of trekking in Bwindi National Forest.

I am splurging on this luxury travel, but I can rationalize it in that for what one night costs in a Serengeti luxury lodge, I get five days, two countries, and two treks with the gentle, wise giants. No, not Bea Arthur and Magic Johnson—the gorillas. And, as my leg seemed to be bothered by long bus rides, I know I’ll be able to stretch more in a Land Rover.

The leg seems very good today. No swelling or redness. It’s fun having Mystery Leg.

I will try and connect with Chuck Wilson, the guy running Pangaea here in Uganda at Makrere University. I’ll fill you in on their work here. Can’t wait! Thanks to you all who supported Pangaea and it’s significant work. You’re saving lives half a world away.

Amani (Swahili for peace.)

Craig

PS- Someone please call Bush and tell him I don’t want war. Thanks.

PPS- More fun signage:

Monica Lewinski Joint (wondered if they sold flutes)

Pain Gay (thought it was an S&M bar—nope-just a muscle rub)

Stay Free Pads with Channels (Why not moats?)

Pop in For Goat Meat (I declined.)

And -The Secret to Good Cooking- Butchery (I wondered if Phoebe and David would agree.)

Friday, March 25, 2005


potassium Posted by Hello


banana please. Posted by Hello


rhino Posted by Hello


for idi Posted by Hello


burgers.air conditioning. mmmmmmmm. Posted by Hello


ohhhh. that white bus. Posted by Hello

Thursday, March 24, 2005

1/25- Catch Up, Redux

Kampala, Uganda-Red Chilli Hideaway 7PM

So, quicklike-

Had a great last day of safari- drove from Serengeti to Lake Manyara-- passed amazing things on the way- a lioness dozing on the side of the road, a cheetah following wildebeest from a half mile, a lioness and her three sons sharing a wildebeest head (crunchy! With flies-no charge) less than six feet from our Rover, two cheetahs panting in the shade of an acacia, their stomachs distended--telling of a recent meal.

We arrived at Lake Manyara Lodge on the escarpment overlooking the lake. The lake was tinged pink with flamingos. The lodge must have been designed by the same architect as the other two lodges--and it had a great freeform pool surrounded by plumeria. Got the feeling this park was a bit off the normal circuit, as there were only about 30 of us there.

The next morning, we went for our final game drive and headed back to Arusha. At Manyara, we had a family of 8 giraffe, and six elephants pass right in front of our vehicle, thisclose--gentle giants just passing through. Visited Oluvai Gorge (the Cradle of Civilization) and a Maasai village. My favorite moment at the village was when a Maasai woman came up to one of our safarimates to greet her with the traditional hand on the shoulder. Our friend thought she was high fiving. Fun with cultural dissonance!

Arived in Arusha at 1PM, and we treated our guide, Philemon, to local food—ugali with tilapia and beef. Ugali is like dry finger-food cream of wheat.

I have to say, the safari restored my faith in group travel after the lousy Kathmandu-to-Tibet sojourn. A really nice, laid back group. A Taiwanese woman working in Grenada, a Guatemalan guy studying in Taiwan (they were friends), two doctors from Toronto, and Maggie Mae and me.

To offer complete disclosure, my leg started acting up on day 7 of the trek, so on safari, I had it elevated most of the time. Had two doctors and a nurse in our group of six, so I felt like I was in good hands. Twice daily naproxin with elevation had the leg good as new. Difat, one of the doctors, said it was not an abscess, but did look like cellulitis. Didn’t think it was serious but said to keep an eye on it. It’s hard putting your eye on your leg. Oops--being literal again.

The leg was fine until the 17-hour bus ride coupled with tight socks--now it’s red again and has edema. Go figure. Always something, huh?

The bus ride was quite posh compared to India. Air-conditioned, restroom, soft drinks, water, cookies--and people actually wait in lines and were polite--imagine! Took about two hours to reach the Kenya border, where I had to get off and get a transit visa. By 9PM, we arrived in Nairobi. Reminded me of an Indian city- big, dusty, dirty.

At 4AM, we had to get off the bus and go through Kenyan exit/Uganda visa process. An hour later, we pulled over, and our bags were searched by the Uganda authorities.

After crossing the start of the Nile in Jinja, we arrived in Kampala at 9AM

En route, my seatmate and I became friends. Greyson, a 21-year-old student of public relations with an infectious giggle and a voice that would range three octaves when speaking, was from Dar Es Salaam studying in Kampala. His dad was a professor of linguistics in Dar. He helped me get through the borders, and in Kampala, took me to change money, and pointed me in the right direction to my hostel.

He said, “I think the US is too crazy, no?”

He asked this as we were watching Steven Segal blow people away in ‘Exit Wound’. No wonder people think we’re nuts.

Old Dubya is REALLY reviled--it’s come up several times with different people. It is embarrassing how much people know about our politics, and how little we know about theirs—or ours, for that matter.

I did think it was a little chilling to have an Indian Internet café owner ask me, “Why do you spend 800 million dollars a day on Jews?” referring to US/Israel support. There was anger in his tone, so I didn’t really respond, said “Sorry. Typing. Can’t talk.”

Back to Red Chilli’s--I had to admit to a feeling of being sort of solo, sitting in my dorm for 40 with only one other person there-- a Peace Corps volunteer on holiday from rural Uganda. It made me think of the Mumbai Red Cross Hostel--which seemed cheery by comparison because of the people there.

Really nice people at Chilli’s- it’s owned by a Brit couple, I think.

I was starting to feel a little old for this sort of travel, as I listened to 19- year old Brits talking, but just then, in walked two men in their mid- to late- 50s doing the same thing. And I was reminded of the 70- year old Belgian woman from San Diego that I met in Burma-- traveling solo with a backpack--“drives my kids and grandkids nuts.” Right on. Never too old to live.

It’s pretty busy right now, as African Adventure overland has just pulled in. Right now, about 20 people are setting up tents, barbecuing and getting caught up on the local brews. Many of the overland truck trips go Capetown to Nairobi-- arduous but rewarding once in a lifetime type thing.

Tomorrow, am off early to go to an island in Lake Victoria called Ngamba Chimpanzee Sanctuary. So at 8am, I grab a matatu(share taxi minvan) to Kampala, switch to an Entebbe matatu.

Off I go, half-informed, curiosity piqued, to spend some time with the chimps. Hey hey, we’re the monkees…

PS- it’s lovely watching the anopheles mosquitoes lazing around my candle. They’re the malaria mosquitoes. I was telling them about their cousin I met in India.


red chilli Posted by Hello


w, kampala Posted by Hello


greyson
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beautiful Posted by Hello


the bros Posted by Hello


serengeti Posted by Hello

“I’m Seeing Spots!”

Got to see the final member of the Big Five today--twice. I think God really knocked Himself out with the leopard. So beautiful. Watched a leopard sleep, stretch, laze, sleep in the Y of a tree for nearly and hour as more than a dozen giraffe grazed unaware.

Seeing the leopard reminded me of being in Dharamsala, India, and walking back to my guesthouse. I heard branches breaking, and about 20 feet away, there was a leopard eating a dog. Glad she/he was eating.

Currently staying at Seronera Wildlife Lodge. It is an amazing structure built in and around the kopjes--it was built in the ‘60s, and looks very California Modern/Westledge School, all angles, glass and natural stone.

I woke this morning to a grunting noise, like a pig but deeper (similar to Demi Moore's voice)-- hippos returning from foraging. And I was being watched through my window- a baboon was scrutinizing me. Just looking. So perfect here. Pristine.

You know, the world can be a most amazing place when man isn’t allowed to screw it up.


problematic hoof Posted by Hello


stripes Posted by Hello


tusk! Posted by Hello


hoofed Posted by Hello


lithe Posted by Hello


dawn ngorongoro Posted by Hello

1/22 “Wake Me Up Ngorongoro"

These are written in retrospect. Still catching up…

Left Arusha at 3PM for a 3-hour drive to Ngorongoro Crater, the world’s largest unbroken caldera, a World Heritage site, and a place referred to as Noah’s Ark.

En route, we passed Maasai villages, people and cattle--and some of the most stunning scenery you could imagine. I realized that I had no idea what Tanzania would look like. All I had to draw from were 30-year old memories of Elsa on the Serengeti in ‘Born Free’. Much, much greener and hillier.

We arrived at Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge at about 6:45PM. I immediately felt guilt at the poshness. I guess India made me a much easier to please traveler.

“Would you like walls with or without bloodstains, sir?”

Looking like a lodge straight out of a ‘60’s Viewmaster, it was really pleasant with all you can eat food.

Up at 8AM for our first game drive. As we descended the crater wall, animals started to appear out of the mist-- hundreds of them. Long story short? In a 4-hour game drive, we saw gazelle, Cape Buffalo, Golden Jackal, black backed jackal, spotted hyena, baboon, elephant, lion, black rhino, flamingos, zebra, ostrich, kori, hippo, serval, bat eared fox-I’m forgetting stuff I’m sure.

From Ngorongoro, we headed to the Serengeti through lush, rolling meadows, Maasai, plains. By the time we got to the Serengeti, we’d also seen the Great Wildebeest Migration-the pah dah dump pah dah dump pah dah dump pah dah dump pah dah dump – the only noise, dust and animals everywhere, in every direction. Perfection.

Also saw a cheetah and her cub feeding under a bush.

We entered the Serengeti, and we passed amazing kopjes (granite boulder formations and some of the oldest rock on earth), eland, hartebeest, warthogs (Fugee! Wartie’s family—okay , okay, so I talk to my dog in my email…), impala, hyrax, banded mongoose, Nile crocs, hippos, topi, giraffe, 2 treed lionesses surrounded by Cape buffalo, a lone lion cub, Maribou storks—who looked like Jeeves the butler- helmeted guinea fowl, crowned cranes, eagles, lovebirds-well, you get the picture. Paradise. All amidst painted perfect backdrop of blue sky, white clouds, acacia trees, flowers--magic.


jordan, consummate host Posted by Hello

1/21 BORN Free!

Been on the move a lot, haven’t had much journal time. Where were we? Oh yeah, back in Arusha.

My clothes stunk. Decided to splurge and have my filthies laundered before safari. I put the stuff together on the bed and heard a knock on the door. The laundry woman swept in and picked up my clothes and was off in a shot. Right after she left, I realized she also took my pants, which had 30,000 Tshillings in the pocket. I asked the front desk if they had found “anything” in my pants. I was intentionally vague, as I didn’t want anyone fired because of a simple error. So, instead of pressing it, I cut my losses (about 30 bucks) and took satisfaction in the fact that on that day, ‘Washerwoman Wins Lotto!’

The following morning, Maggie and I met Jordan, Iris and their son and went to Catholic mass in Arusha. The mass was in English and contained 3,421 hymns, of which exactly one was singable—because it was to the tune of ‘Eidelweiss’. Not quite sure why church hymns seem so atonal and syncopated to me. I’m a good singer, but get me in a church, and I turn into Eeyore the Tone Deaf Mule. And why would God want to hear the word praise sung as “pray- yayyy- yayyyy-aaaiii- ssss” covering 4 1⁄2 octaves?

After church, we stopped by Scandinavian Bus Lines (not a Swede in sight) to pick up my bus ticket to Kampala- a 17-hour journey via Nairobi, aka Nai-robbery to many travelers. So post-safari, I’ll be at the Catholic Diocese overnight and off to Kampala at 2PM.

Four of the six people on our safari are headed to Zanzibar after--it’s the usual Tanzanian tourist circuit. They were feeling sort of apprehensive, as a traveler’s advisory had been put in effect for Zanzibar by the US & UK State Departments.

I have to say, I hate the fact that radical Islam has made many suspicious of any Islam. Islam, like Christianity, Buddhism, Judaism, is about love and the Golden Rule.

Being blasted out of bed at 5AM for a call to prayer in India—‘Allah Akbar…Allah akbar…’-I used to find it really magical. Now, and I’m angry with myself for thinking it, I think of Mohammed Atta and crew’s last words as they took down planes on 9/11.

(Interjection- it was unsettling to see a car go buy in Arusha with an Osama Bin Laden sticker on the back.)

I’m angry with the media, the hysteria, the radicals for making me suspicious of a noble religion. I ask myself why I don’t feel the same suspicions toward radical Christians, some who kill doctors, blow up clinics and celebrate AIDS deaths and beatings.

But radical Islam and Christianity are bedfellows—they share fear and hatred as core values. I feel pity for them, when they meet their god and realize they just got it all wrong. All are one. As the Beatles knew, “Love Is All You Need.”



thanks, mom Posted by Hello


roof of africa, dawn, 20 below zero Posted by Hello


snows of kilimanjaro at uhuru summit, dawn Posted by Hello


spacious dining Posted by Hello


mount meru Posted by Hello


justified, ancient Posted by Hello