1/27 Red Chilli’s 5:40PM.

Have had two very nice days in Kampala. On Sunday, I got myself down to Entebbe-- a very green and pretty little town, made world famous by a spectacular Israeli hijacking rescue that really pissed of fun, insane dictator Idi Amin. I arrived at the Uganda Wildlife Education Center to begin my chimp/Ngamba trip. Ngamba is 28K off Entebbe in Lake Victoria, the second largest freshwater lake in the world. There were maybe 20 of us waiting who were greeted by a rep from G&C Tours.

As we were walking down to the pier, the G&C guy explained that we would be crossing the equator, and on the return, we could hop of the boat and go swimming if we wanted to.

Might sound inviting, but this was after we’d been talking about bilharzia, a disease caused by a snail parasite that drills in through your skin and swims up stream to set up castles in your liver. Sort of like your own internal sea monkey family. Fun!

So, did I want to jump in for a swim? Well, I would have, but I’d just finished eating my tapeworm sandwich. 30-minute rule and all…

We arrived at this beautiful little rainforest island, were given a thorough history and briefing, then an hour or so to relax before the 2:30PM feeding. They even had kayaks for use if you wanted to paddle out to meet the snails on their turf.

Ngamba is an amazing place- not exploitative, and there are about 40 chimps there.

All of the chimps were confiscated from illegal trade—a couple were even repatriated from an Eastern European circus where they used to have to rollerskate and smoke cigarettes.

It was shocking to learn that in Cameroon, 3,000 chimps a year are eaten. Chimp meat, or “sweet meat” is highly prized, and even is eaten in London & Brussels. I find that astounding, a little too much like cannibalism. Would you like Mexican or French tonight?

At 4PM, we boarded the speed canoe back to Entebbe. A beautiful late afternoon sun warmed as I wondered if snails were burrowing into my lips—lake spray and all.

Arrived back at Red Chilli around 7:30PM. A great day with the great apes.

Today, I met Greyson, and we went around Kampala. He wanted to show me where he lived, “It is a slum, I think!” Off we went on boda bodas (mototaxis) through a very poor neighborhood known as Banda.

I was great entertainment--like having Mars come a-calling. Greyson said they probably hadn’t seen a European (honkie) before.

The kids were so cute--one approached me—all wide eyes, curiosity and a quick touch, before running back to her friends.

Greyson was saying that we in the west have weak immune systems-- which I think is true. The number of viruses, bacteria, parasites that they deal with on a daily basis--perhaps this is why people with HIV succumb so quickly in Africa. That and lack of meds.

One thing that broke my heart was seeing a little girl of maybe four, in her pretty Sunday dress. She must have had hydrocephalus, as her head must have been 30” around. She did look very serene and happy, though.

Later, we visited Kasubi tombs, burial site of the Bugandan kings. Also saw the first two chairs in Uganda- from pretty pretty Queen Victoria. I NEVER thought I’d see those chairs!

One thing which I really like was that our guide told us that in Lugandan, the word for die doesn’t mean death—it means to change. Very strong belief in the afterlife.

After the tombs, I headed to Volcanoes Safaris to check on my gorilla trek status.

I walked past embassies, parks. Funny, the Maribou storks I found so funny in the Serengeti, well, in a major city, they look like minions from Hell, all red scrotum heads and mangy necks, with their weird butler outfits.

A nice Oz couple were saying they were kind of creeped out by them too, especially since they saw them picking at the dead flamingos in Kenya.

Kampala has a very cosmopolitan feel, like an African Paris, with red clay dust, and the Maribou on the bird, not the sweater. Uganda seems to be one of the more Off the Beaten Track places I’ve been—not many tourists.

At Volcanoes, I was warmly greeted by Francis, the gentleman with whom I’d been corresponding about their supporting my gorilla trek.

“You must be Mr. Craig! Welcome!”

Volcanoes is an extremely upscale tour operator—they arrange travel for the Gorilla Fund when they visit.

Volcanoes is going to pay for my trek in Rwanda, the government of Rwanda is giving me a gratis permit, and they are giving me a hefty discount on a second day of trekking in Bwindi National Forest.

I am splurging on this luxury travel, but I can rationalize it in that for what one night costs in a Serengeti luxury lodge, I get five days, two countries, and two treks with the gentle, wise giants. No, not Bea Arthur and Magic Johnson—the gorillas. And, as my leg seemed to be bothered by long bus rides, I know I’ll be able to stretch more in a Land Rover.

The leg seems very good today. No swelling or redness. It’s fun having Mystery Leg.

I will try and connect with Chuck Wilson, the guy running Pangaea here in Uganda at Makrere University. I’ll fill you in on their work here. Can’t wait! Thanks to you all who supported Pangaea and it’s significant work. You’re saving lives half a world away.

Amani (Swahili for peace.)

Craig

PS- Someone please call Bush and tell him I don’t want war. Thanks.

PPS- More fun signage:

Monica Lewinski Joint (wondered if they sold flutes)

Pain Gay (thought it was an S&M bar—nope-just a muscle rub)

Stay Free Pads with Channels (Why not moats?)

Pop in For Goat Meat (I declined.)

And -The Secret to Good Cooking- Butchery (I wondered if Phoebe and David would agree.)