Part Three: In Tents, Intense.

Wow. BootsnAll is gonna rescind my backpacker stripes for this one. The level of service and accommodation—well, let’s just say the Thank Yous from the British Baroness/Amabassador to Africa, Bill & Hillary, Rachel Hunter/SuperModel, this isn’t my usual scene. It was kind of embarrassing having someone assigned specifically to my tent, as well as 6 to 8 other just serving me.

Some of Volcanoes accolades-BA Highlife, One of the 13 best safaris in the world. I mean, good God, Conde Nast rated it.

I’m more accustomed to the Department of Sanitation/Board of Health rating my digs.

Had a great dinner of cream of mushroom soup, steak, green beans, chips, corn cake & custard. Very good indeed.

I did feel guilty, though, knowing that I was being so catered to in a very, very poor rural community, one of Uganda’s epicenters of HIV crisis. I had to put that aside so that I could appreciate the experience I was being afforded. Hell, I couldn’t even afford the tips they expect in a joint like this. Volcanoes really is outstanding and really the only way I could have done this with my leg like it is.

I passed a couple of backpackers in Kabale--hot, sweaty—huge packs on back, huge daypacks on front, Lonely Planet in Hand, on foot—looking tired, dusty frustrated.

I didn’t miss that. Not today.

5:39PM Bwindi Camp

Sitting on the deck overlooking the Impenetrable Forest, the soundtrack of rushing stream, hornbill, children laughing, chimpanzees screaming, and bird
calls too numerous to count. Butterflies flit around in the golden pre-dusk. What a day.

At 6:45AM, up and dressed getting stuff together for the trek. Had breakfast at 7:15 and at 7:45 left for park headquarters. Arrived, registered, and were briefed on the cans and cannots. By 8:30, we were divided into three groups and sent in different directions.

My group was called M. In our group of trekkers, there was a New Jersey doctor and wife in their 60s, and a couple from Knoxville. We started off, and by some bizarre twist, I the youngest and most fit, was put dead last behind the doctor, who sounded like a coronary was imminent.

One of my least favorite bugaboos showed up. Why the hell are Americans so loud? And do they(we) all have absolutely know idea what impact they are making on the environment around them(us)?

We fell into a quick rhythm of doctor shouting his travel experiences, peppered with,

“Isn’t that right, Joan?”

“That’s right, dear.”

Followed were his attempts to harpoon me with his walking stick. Did I mention the flatus for every fifth or tenth stride?

I was looking forward to the smell of the gorillas.

After about an hour and a half of very steep climb on reasonably groomed trail, we hit the top of the hill. Caleb, our guide, said we were about 20 minutes from where group M slept last night.

In 10 minutes, we entered (for an Impenetrable Forest) a relative clearing, were told to grab our cameras, leave our packs, and go.

This is when we went “off road” as it were, through a machete- hacked trail of vines, grasses, trees. Caleb stopped & pointed toward some undergrowth, then he made a grunting sound and shook a tree. All of a sudden, I saw a very furry black leg disappear into shadow.

The guides cleared a spot for us to sit and they checked their watches. We were allowed exactly 60 minutes with the gorillas.

The first to appear was a male of about five who ran and somersaulted to within about 10 feet of us, stood up and stared with what looked like an expression of amusement. Caleb said he was doing the gorilla equivalent of laughing and wondering why on earth we were there.

For the gorillas, tourists are fun time, the time when the children wrestle, swing and play. Caleb said as soon as we leave, they feed & sleep. Soon, three or four more appeared. We sat and watched them for about 40 minutes as a female adult sat watching us watching them.

You could see the intelligence and gentleness I their eyes. It was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen—so peaceful.

We moved into the forest a bit further and found the silverback. He had little to no interest in us, but he did have a good case of gas. Or was that the doctor?

Our hour ended too quickly, and I feel so honored to have seen the gorillas, with so few left today. Thank you, all you Fossey supporters for helping these creatures. You make a difference in our world.

On our way back to park headquarters, we stopped to eat our packed lunches. My fundraising came up. The couple from Tennessee thought it was a really cool idea and want to incorporate it in their future travels.

The doctor’s wife said to me, “How did you raise so much?”

I said I asked friends and generally talked about it a lot.

You’d think I’d pooped on her sandwich.

Her reply, “Oh. I would never ask friends. In fact, I wouldn’t allow my kids to trick or treat for UNICEF. I’d just give them money.”

Is that right, Joan?

I piped in. Couldn’t help it.

I said, “Well, you know, talking about the effort or charity is as important as the funds raised. Perhaps you did your kids and UNICEF a disservice by not letting them ask.”

Silence and uncomfortable shifting.

(And big ‘Right on!’ grins from Tennessee.)

I’m not usually so high and mighty, but my diamond slippers were cramping my feet in my ivory tower.

Doctor’s wife, “Well, our just coming here is philanthropic.”

Lucky, lucky Africa.

Isn’t that right, Joan.

I think what kind of ticked me off about wifey is that we were given strict No Flash orders. Her camera flashed once—okay, could happen to anyone. Twice? Maybe. Five times?

The guard said something and she shrugged and gave a look as if to say, “I’m powerless. My camera has come alive and it now controls me.”

But really, she wasn’t so bad, and it was a fantastic trek experience. So peaceful, except for the guards with machine guns in front and behind us. Hard to imagine that this is close to one of Africa’s more volatile areas.

Tomorrow, off to Mgahinga for an overnight before trekking Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda, home to Fossey and Gorillas in the Mist.

(For now, I’m off to the Forex and Pharmacy. I’ll fill you in on the exceptional, but kind of troubling, experience in Rwanda.)

Ciao.
Craig